The charming town of Los Olivos, in the middle of the Santa Barbara wine region, has long been a bustling spot. Things may have slowed a bit mid-pandemic, but that didn’t stop Nella Kitchen & Bar from opening in the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn last fall. It’s a modern Cal-Italian spot from the same people who run Santa Ynez’s popular S.Y. Kitchen.

Nella chef de cuisine Marco Longinotti is largely self-taught. “My professional career started as a hobby, cooking for friends when I had free time from my office job,” he says. “Then it became friends of friends and so on, until I realized life is about what you make it.”

Now Longinotti serves up Roman pinsa — pizza’s light, crisp cousin — at Nella. And while the chef would be happy to share his pinsa dough recipe, those of us who ditched the long-fermented dough projects back in early shelter-in-place time might not dive right in. Instead, consider this perfectly seasonal recipe for another classic Roman dish, Carciofi alla Romana, or Roman-style braised baby artichokes.

Longinotti has a few tips. First, don’t use full-size artichokes. “Make sure you use baby artichokes so you don’t have to discard anything apart for the outer leaves,” Longinotti says.

Pay attention to how you place the artichokes in the pot — top down, stems up — because it will affect the cooking process. And don’t rely on the timer to judge doneness. Check the artichokes’ tenderness for yourself.

“To make sure they are ready, pierce a few with a toothpick,” he says. “Actually, try one! You will not regret it.”

This dish can be served warm or at room temperature. Or you can go the extra step and fry the braised artichokes until crispy.

Carciofi alla Romana (Roman style baby artichokes)

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 lemons, cut in half

10 to 15 baby artichokes

Extra virgin olive oil

2 anchovies

2 garlic cloves

1 small bunch parsley

About 1 bottle dry white wine

To serve:

Sea salt, freshly ground black pepper

Freshly grated pecorino

Directions

Fill a large nonreactive bowl with cold water and squeeze a couple of lemons in it.

Prep the artichokes by removing the tough outer leaves until you reach the tender inner, lighter green leaves. To be sure you got to the right point, try a leaf; if it is too tough and fibrous, remove another layer. Peel the stem and cut off the tip of the artichoke. Transfer to the lemony water and cover with a clean kitchen towel to keep them completely submerged, so they do not oxidize. Repeat the process until you go through all the artichokes.

Choose a large sauce pot, one that will be big enough to contain all the artichokes one next to the other standing stem up. Cover the bottom with about 2 inches of extra-virgin olive oil. Chop the anchovies, garlic cloves and parsley and add to the oil.

Turn the stove to medium and let the oil heat until it starts sizzling. Take the pot off the heat and ease the artichokes in, stems up, until you completely fill the pot.

Return the pot to medium heat and let the artichokes start sizzling. Pour in enough white wine to nearly submerge the artichokes and cover with a lid. Let cook for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the artichokes, at an easy simmer, adjusting the heat as needed. Check for doneness.

Remove from heat when tender, and let the artichokes cool in their cooking liquid. Serve warm or at room temperature with salt, pepper and freshly grated pecorino.

Optional, if you want to go the extra step: Heat frying oil to 340 or 350 degrees. Slightly open the braised artichoke leaves and fry them until crispy, 3 to 5 minutes. Let them drain stem up on a layer of paper towels, then season with sea salt and serve with some freshly grated pecorino and black pepper.

— Courtesy Marco Longinotti, chef de cuisine, Nella Kitchen & Bar, Los Olivos