Look up the recipe for "old fashioned" or classic latkes in any cookbook or website, and you'll notice they all call for using raw potatoes. As the Jewish cooking blog 18Doors explains, once you wash and peel the potatoes, the process entails grating them, soaking them in cold water, then draining them before combining them with onion. Joan Nathan, however, takes a different approach.
Instead of the traditional method, the New York Times writer uses a technique she learned from Nathaniel Wade, a chef at Martha's Vineyard restaurant Outermost Inn, who learned it from Winooski, Vermont restaurant Misery Loves Co. The technique involves cooking the potatoes in the oven just until the outside is fully done while the inside remains raw. The potatoes are then cooled and grated. The reason this is so effective, Nathan explains, is the par-baking process slightly dries out the potatoes, yielding the perfect balance of starch and moisture. When the grated potato is combined with the other ingredients, then fried, the resulting latkes are able to hold their shape and crisp up perfectly.
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